There are three models in the range of 41mm watches that have cases, bezels and integrated bracelets in stainless steel with a smoked blue tapisserie dial; titanium with sandblasted slate grey dial; and 18ct pink gold with a smoked grey sunburst tapisserie dial.
The automatic Calibre 2950 flying tourbillon movement with decorations such as Côtes de Genève, satin-brushing, snailing and hand-polished chamfers, can be seen from the dial side and through a sapphire glass exhibition case back.
Also this week, Audemars Piguet has unveiled two new models in its Code 11.59 range, both using the same Calibre 2950 automatic flying tourbillon movement with a central rotor.
Both have gold dials presented with a blend of crushed aventurine glass and grand feu enamel designed to look like a starry blue or black night sky.
The blue-dialed model comes with 18ct white gold hands, markers and case while the black model uses pink gold.
Perfect replica Audemars Piguet has recently adopted a somewhat unusual communication strategy – rather than officially announcing at least some of its new models, the company instead simply posts them to its website, which means that if you’re a client or want to be one, you have to be a bit on your toes, especially when it comes to smaller series and limited edition models. Today, Audemars Piguet has launched a most interesting new version of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin, that most classic of all Royal Oak models. The new models have a platinum case and bracelet, and in addition, there is a rose-gold model as well. And something else not seen often on a Jumbo in recent years: diamond indexes.
You can find diamond indexes, of course, on gem-set Royal Oaks, but I haven’t seen one with only diamond indexes, although I would not be surprised at all to find out it has been done at some point since the line launched in 1972. The diamonds here are set into a black onyx dial, for both the platinum model and rose-gold models. The watches are a limited edition, it will surprise no one to hear; moreover, they are limited in distribution geographically – there will be 70 pieces, made for AP retailer Yoshida, in Tokyo.
Swiss made fake watches with diamond indexes are less frequently seen today than in the years prior to the Quartz Crisis and the subsequent renaissance of mechanical watches, and they can be somewhat polarizing. They were often found on watches that stereotypically might be classified as men’s dress watches, and they sometimes appear to be either too much or not enough. If you’re going to have diamonds at all, the thinking seems to go, go all in (whatever that might mean) or leave them out entirely. Diamonds for indexes only seems a little like the precious stone equivalent of a gold and steel watch. You want diamonds, but twelve small ones are about the limit of your budget.
They seem to work pretty damned well in this instance, though. They undoubtedly give the watch a little bit of a throwback feel, and in a steel watch, maybe (and only maybe) you could argue that they smack a bit too much of economy, but on a Jumbo with a platinum case and bracelet, they read more stealth-luxury than anything else. A card-sharp on a hot streak might want something more glittery, the better to attract and hold the eye of Lady Luck; the casino owner upstairs watching strongboxes full of cash going into the vault would probably be wearing this guy.
With the always-classic ultra-thin caliber 2121, this is a watch worth a trip to Tokyo – or an urgent request for a Zoom meeting at the very least.